Pandharpur- Panduranga (Vitthal, Vitthal, Vitthal Vitthal)

After the arduous adventure at Tulja Bhawani which entailed a fast and standing in line for hours, I was actually looking forward to going to Pandharpur. It was a Tuesday, a working day after a long weekend. I was really looking forward to an empty temple and an easy darshan provided I was able to reached there early enough. I got in around 6am after a 2 hour drive.
 
The view of the Bhima river also called Chandrabhaga because of its crescent moon shape, from the bridge getting into the city was magnificent. The plethora of people bathing almost reminded me of Varanasi. The river and the colours of India merging together is indeed an awesome sight always, there is something very pious and surreal about it, a tradition being followed from the times gone by. It’s my favourite scene to watch and capture, the one of nature and man coming together in their very natural states. This is how it should be!
 
You can always tell the presiding deity of the space by the vibe of the city. This was definitely Vishnu, Krishna, Narayan. There is a certain discipline and grace around the devotees of Vishnu. Egos are a little more obvious. I suppose Daksha in them is too deep rooted. From the shop keeper to everyone I asked for directions of, since both Swamy and the driver were inept at Hindi they were for sure Krishna bhaktas.
 
It didn’t register with me how popular Pandarpur as a destination was till I entered the small city. No bigger than the city of Mathura or Vrindavan it attracts about a million during the yatra time in June and July. I suppose the spill over pilgrims were enough to make my heart sink. This is probably the only Krishna temple where all devotees who come may touch the feet of the Panduranga idol. This is quite a rare opportunity and I didn’t want to miss it. Dreading the lines as I walked in guard explained that only people who have online booking can go in for special darshan the rest of the crowd has to make their way to the line. Something I could have done, had I anticipated this- J next time. Mukha darshan, where you can see the deity from a distance popular in Maharashtra temples was available without any line. I gathered my courage and made my way to the beginning of the line.
 
The line started almost at the river about 1 km from the temple . There is an over-bridge that has been built across the entire city for the line. Right opposite the temple is a nine floor building to manage the crowd. When I went at 6 o’clock on a working day 3 floors had been opened. You keep going round and round in circle in a very small space, after a point you lose track and can’t tell if the people in the line next to you have been standing there before you or if they came after. This entire building has no fans and is naturally ventilated, this was an intermittent relief whenever the draft of air came in. The other big relief was Swamy who kept the crowds at bay behind me.
 
I didn’t realise phones were not allowed. When I gathered that they weren’t I was too far into the line and couldn’t do anything about it. I quietly stuffed it in the folds of my skirts belt hoping they would not frisk very fervently. I walked through the security gate with the heart in my mouth. Panduranga and the 11 Vishnu Sahasranaams saved me. It was my first experience of 6 hour line. I can assure you I was so grateful to God that I know how to chant because otherwise its so boring to stand endlessly in a line. I have to however fall back on all the chants I have committed to memory because I hadn’t carried a book.
 
Pandarpur gets its name a merchant, Pundalik, who received Krishna in this town. The presiding daities of the city are "Vithoba", "Pāndurang", and "Pandharinath" are all names of  Vittal, a form of Lord Krishna. Krishna in turn an incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Rakhumaai or Rukmini is also there as Viththal's consort in the temple.
 
The saga of Pundalik is one of the most important legends about Vithoba. Pundalik was a devoted son to his parents Janudev and Satyavati, who lived in a forest called Dandirvan. But after his wedding, Pundalik begins ill-treating his parents. Tired of their son’s misbehaviour and ill treatment, the elderly couple decided to leave for Kashi.
However, the elderly couple were not destined to escape their suffering so easily. Pundalik and his wife decide to join them on pilgrimage and their ill treatment continues. While the youthful son and his wife ride on horseback, the frail old couple walk in bad weather. Pundalik even continued to make his old parents work and every evening, when the party camps for the night, he made his parents to groom the horses and do other jobs.
 
On the way to Kashi, the group reaches the ashram (hermitage) of a pious and venerable sage, Kukkutswami. Exhausted, the family decides to spend a few days there. That night, when all were asleep, Pundalik by chance is awake and sees a remarkable vision. Just before dawn, a group of beautiful young women, dressed in soiled clothes, enter the ashram; they clean the floor, fetch water and wash the venerable sage’s clothes. After finishing their chores, they go to the prayer-room. When they reappear after prayer, their clothes are spotlessly clean. Then, they vanish as inexplicably as they had appeared.
 
Pundalik is not moved to raise an alarm, but feels a deep sense of peace witnessing the scene. It remains on his mind the whole day and he resolves to remain awake the next night, and confirm it was not merely a dream. This time, however, Pundalik is very curious. He approaches the beautiful women. The women tell him that they are the Ganga (Ganges), Yamuna and other holy rivers of India—revered for their holiness. Pilgrims wish to take a dip in their holy waters to wash away their sins, which in fact are soiling their clothes.Then, the women say: "But O Pundalik, you, with your ill-treatment of your parents, are the greatest sinner of them all!"
 
Pundalik is utterly shocked and his has a complete transformation of consciousness . He realizes his misdeeds, becomes entirely devoted to his parents and ensures their comfort, even risking his own.
 
Impressed by Pundalik's devotion to his parents, Lord Visnu plans to visit Pundalik. So, He leaves Vaikuntha (His abode) for Pundalik’s ashram. Vishnu knocks at Pundalik’s door, when he is busy serving his parents food. Pundalik does realize God is at his door. But such was his devotion to his parents, he wants to complete his duties and only then attend the visitor. Then, Pundalik does something strange but out of real devotion. He throws a brick outside for God to stand on and wait for him until he finishes attending to his parents. It is the first day of monsoon so it is wet and muddy outside. If Lord Vishnu stands upon a brick his feet will remain clean and dry.
 
Seeing this act, Visnu is extremely impressed and the ever-loving God waits for his devotee. When Pundalik comes out, he begs for pardon but far from being displeased, Vishnu is taken over by Pundalik's love for his parents and grants a boon. Pundalik requests Visnu to stay back on Earth and bless all his true devotees. He agrees to take the form of Vithoba, or God who stood upon a brick, and a temple comes up there.
 
While it was a long wait the actual audience with Panduranga was very very beautiful and leisurely. There was no pushing, no pulling, not like the sea of devotees at Tirumala. Inspite of the long line I was able to touch Vitthal’s feet and I even was given a rose from his turban. This I suppose is not the norm. Once the darshan is over most people rush out but I was able to sit there for a good half an hour reciting my chants to Narayan. There was no memory of the hours of wait after touching Lords feet.
 
About 1 hour from the Vitthal temple was Akluj a small town with Akalai Devi temple. It was a beautiful small temple I was able to visit that morning still.
 
By the time I got back to the hotel it was 3pm and I crashed for a good 15 hrs. The hotel, the driver and Swamy were pretty concerned but I had no strength to even get out of the room and show my face to anyone.

Last year I got really lucky thanks to Angela and Gaurav who invited me to a live performance by Mahesh Kale. He recently was awarded the National award in classical music. I was very touched by two performances dedicated to Vitthal, Panduranga. I am sharing them here with you all just the get a feel of the sounds in the space there.